Men's Business Formal

Suit Styles

jacket and trousers should be the same color

• gray, charcoal, and navy are considered to be the conservative and safest colors
• brown, toupe, and tan are traditional, but are viewed as antiquated by some
• black suits are geared more towards funerals or formal social gatherings
• olive is reserved for social events like corporate dinners
• choose a light-weight wool over polyester

shoes and belt should be the same color

• your leathers should always be as dark or darker than your suit
• black works with gray, charcoal, and navy suits
• brown may be worn with navy suits, but that brown should be dark; avoid tan
• match shiny shoes with a shiny belt, likewise match dull shoes with a dull belt

shirt and tie should complement eachother and the suit

• look for long sleeve oxfords without button down collars; short sleeves are not appropriate in formal work environments
• undershirts should always be worn, but should never be seen
• when properly worn, the tip of a tie should be between the top and middle of the belt buckle
• avoid spread and band collars

accessories

• when wearing tie pins and clips wear gold with warm colors and silver with cool
• match the metal finish on the tie clip with the metal finish on the belt
• choose a soft merino wool sock that matches the suit
• avoid cotton socks; they absorb moisture and odor

Suit Fitting

find a good tailor

Having a suit tailored to your body is both expensive and worth it. Suits that are bought off of the rack are made to fit a wide range of bodies. A fitted suit will not only look sophisticated, but it will also feel comfortable.

sizing your own suit

Most gentlemen do not need a closet full of tailored suits and some can not afford it. Here are some suggestion for finding a nice fitting suit from the rack.

• when standing straight up with your arms on your sides, the jacket's shoulder pads should not extend past the edge of your shoulders or fall short of it
• when buttoned a jacket should conform to your torso; skinny men should have a jacket that is small at the chest and small at the abdomen, atheletic men should be wide at the chest and small at the abdomen, and portly men should be small at the chest and wide at the abdomen
• when standing straight up with your arms on your sides, the oxford's sleeves should extend to just cover your wrist bone and the suit jacket's sleeves should reveal 1/2 inch of your oxford cuffs
• in determining your waist size, find a pair of slacks that fit snuggly when standing with your shirt tucked it, then add a half inch to that size so you have a pair of pants that fit comfortably when seated and after large meals
• wear your favorite pair of dress shoes to the store; wear these shoes when determining your pant length. When standing up the legs of your pants should extend to touch the top of your shoes and should do so without bunching, thus your pants will hang "straight and clean"

Suit Care

• suit jackets should be hung on wooden hangers in protective plastic covers
• suit pants should be hung by the waist from hanger clips
• oxford shirts should be ironed before use and the collar points should be removed before washing and ironing
• knots should be removed from ties and the ties should be placed on tie racks or rolled and placed in drawers
• shoes should be cleaned and polished regularly

Women's Business Formal

This section was written with assistance from Kate Holdener, a graduate of S&T, and the UMC College of Business

Suit Styles

jacket and skirt/trousers should be the same color

• a jacket, blouse, mid-length (knee level or slightly above) skirt, pantyhose, and closed-toe short-heel pumps are the make-up of a conservative suit
• when choosing a skirt style, go for straight or pencil skirts over twirly or flowing types
• although skirts are more traditional, pantsuits are generally an acceptable alternative in most work environments
• women have more leeway when choosing their suit colors, however navy is the most formal and black is the most versatile
• red is an acceptable color choice when you want to stand out from the crowd, but pink should be avoided
• in general neutral colors and classic fabric patterns make the best choices

shoes and belt should be the same color

• belts are not mandatory for women
• short length heels are the most conservative, medium length heels are acceptable, but very high and no heel shoes should be avoided
• your shoes should always be as dark or darker than your suit
• black works with gray, charcoal, and navy suits
• brown may be worn with navy suits, but that brown should be dark; avoid tan
• match shiny shoes with a shiny belt, likewise match dull shoes with a dull belt

shirts and blouses

• choose blouses with long sleeves; sleeveless shirts are not appropriate in formal work environments
• undergarmets should be worn, but should never be seen
• classic patterns and colors that coordinate with the suit are the best choice
• it's perfectly fine to look feminine, but avoid too many frills, ruffles, and trendy fashions

accessories

• wear makeup that is natural in appearance
• minimize the amount and flash of jewelry; it should complement, not overwhelm
• avoid elaborate hairstyles

Suit Fitting

find a good tailor

Having a suit tailored to your body is both expensive and worth it. Suits that are bought off of the rack are made to fit a wide range of bodies. A fitted suit will not only look sophisticated, but it will also feel comfortable.

sizing your own suit

It is recommended that women working in a formal environment should own several suits. However, it may not be fiscally practical to own several tailored suits. Here are some suggestions for finding a nice fitting suit from the rack.

• the collar should lie flat against the back of your neck
• shoulders should be lightly padded and not too boxy or sloped
• sleeves should reveal 1/2 inch of shirt or blouse cuff
• when standing and with a tucked in blouse, you should be able to slide two fingers under the waistline and pull about 1 inch of fabric at the hip
• skirts should fall straight; back zippers will help with this

Suit Care

• suit jackets should be hung on wooden hangers in protective plastic covers
• suit skirts and pants should be hung by the waist from hanger clips
• shirts should be ironed or steamed to remove wrinkles and creases before wearing
• shoes should be cleaned and polished regularly