This is a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) with answers, compiled
for the UseNet newsgroup rec.sport.fencing. It is intended to reduce
repetitive discussions on the Net by addressing commonly raised topics.
This document is maintained by Morgan Burke.
Contributions, corrections, and suggestions are welcome.
Most of the questions and answers pertain to FIE (Olympic) Fencing;
Japanese fencing (kendo, kenjustsu, iaido, etc.) is treated in a
separate FAQ list ("Japanese Sword Arts") that can occasionally be
found in the newsgroups rec.sport.fencing or rec.martial-arts, or on
the IAIDO-L mailing list (see section 3.8 for details). The Japanese
Sword Arts FAQ is maintained by Neil Gedzwill.
The Fencing FAQ is presented in three parts:
1. GENERAL: common questions about starting fencing, training, and
rules of competition
2. EQUIPMENT: fencing equipment, maintenance, and troubleshooting
3. REFERENCE: organizations, suppliers, reading materials, net
resources, glossary, etc.
All parts can be found on the UseNet newsgroups rec.sport.fencing
rec.answers, or news.answers. Otherwise, consult section3.8 for
information on finding archived copies of this document.
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PART 1 : General
General:
1.1 What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?
1.2 How did fencing originate?
1.3 How is modern fencing different from the "real thing"?
1.4 Which is the best weapon?
1.5 Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?
Getting Started:
1.6 Does it hurt?
1.7 What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?
1.8 How long does it take to become good?
1.9 What qualities make a good fencer?
1.10 How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?
1.11 How do I find a good fencing club?
Training:
1.12 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?
1.13 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach?
Regulations:
1.14 What is right of way?
1.15 What constitutes an attack?
1.16 What constitutes a parry?
1.17 What constitutes a point-in-line?
1.18 What is the scoop on "flicks" and "whips"?
1.19 What are the latest rule changes?
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1.1 What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?
The Olympic sport of fencing is comprised of three weapons: foil,
epee, and sabre. All are fenced on a long rectangular strip, and
electronic scoring aids are normally used to assist in the
detection of touches. The rules governing these three weapons
are determined by the FIE (Federation Internationale d'Escrime).
Briefly, the FIE weapons are described as follows:
Foil: Descended from the 18th century small sword, the foil has a
thin, flexible blade with a square cross-section and a small
bell guard. Touches are scored with the point on the torso of
the opponent, including the groin and back. Foil technique
emphasizes strong defense and the killing attack to the body.
Epee: Similar to the duelling swords of the mid-19th century,
epees have stiff blades with a triangular cross section,
and large bell guards. Touches are scored with the point,
anywhere on the opponent's body. Unlike foil and sabre, there
no rules of right-of-way to decide which attacks have precedence,
and double hits are possible. Epee technique emphasises timing,
point control, and a good counter-attack.
Sabre: Descended from duelling sabres of the late 19th century,
which were in turn descended from naval and cavalry swords, sabres
have a light, flat blade and a knuckle guard. Touches can be
scored with either the point or the edge of the blade, anywhere
above the opponent's waist. Sabre technique emphasises speed,
feints, and strong offense.
The most popular of eastern fencing techniques is kendo, the Japanese
"Way of the Sword". Kendo is fought with a bamboo shinai, intended
to resemble a two-handed Japanese battle sword. Combatants wear
armour, and strike to the top or sides of the head, the sides of the
body, the throat, or the wrists. Accepted technique must be
observed, and judges watch for accuracy, power, and spirit. See the
Japanese Sword Arts FAQ for more information.
Other martial arts that include elements of swordsmanship are:
Aikido -- self defence against armed and unarmed attackers. Includes
using and defending oneself against Japanese sword techniques.
Arnis, Escrima, Kali -- Phillipino stick and knife disciplines.
Iaido -- the Japanese art of the sword draw (also Iaijutsu and
batto-jutsu, more combat-oriented variants of the same).
Jogo do Pau -- a Portuguese stick-fighting discipline.
Jojutsu -- a Japanese stick-fighting discipline.
Kalaripayitt -- includes sword and weapons techniques from south
India.
Kenjutsu -- the unadulterated Japanese martial art of the sword.
Krabi Krabong -- a Thai martial art that includes many sword forms.
Kumdo -- A Korean variant of Kendo.
Kung-fu -- a Chinese martial art that includes many sword techniques.
La Canne -- French Boxing, with a single-handed stick, using
rules similar to classical fencing.
Le Baton -- similar to La Canne, but with a longer, 2-handed stick.
Maculele -- Afro-Brazilian machete forms, related to Capoeira.
Mensur -- German fraternity "duelling", with schlagers.
Modern Pentathlon -- the "soldier's medley", a sport that recreates
demands placed on a pre-20th century military messenger: running,
swimming, shooting, equestrian jumping, and epee fencing.
Pentjak Silat -- Indonesian arts that include sword and stick forms.
Single Stick -- an ancestor of sabre fencing, fought with a
basket-hilted wooden rod.
SCA duello -- rapier-like fencing in the round, with off-hand
techniques. Additional info on the SCA can be found in the
newsgroup rec.org.sca.
SCA heavy lists -- medieval-style heavy combat, with rattan weapons,
armour, and shields. Additional info on the SCA can be found in the
newsgroup rec.org.sca.
Shinkendo -- real-sword-oriented variant of Kendo.
Tai Chi -- another Chinese martial art that includes many sword
techniques.
Lastly, it should be pointed out that stick/baton fighting,
shield use, and related infantry tactics continue to be a part of
modern riot police training.
[Back to Index]
1.2 How did fencing originate?
Swordfighting as sport has existed since ancient Egypt, and has
been practiced in many forms in various cultures since then.
Although jousting and tournament combat was a popular sport in
the European middle ages, modern FIE fencing owes more to
unarmoured duelling forms that evolved from 16th century rapier
combat.
Although rapier combat had a nominal military role (for thrusting
into the chinks of heavy armour), it was most popular amongst
civilians who used it for self-defence and duelling. Rapiers
were edged, but the primary means of attack was the thrust.
Rapier fencing spread from Italy to Spain and northwest Europe,
in spite of the objections of masters such as George Silver who
preferred traditional cutting weapons such the English long
sword.
The Spanish school, under masters such as Narvaez and Thibault,
became a complicated and mystical affair whose geometrical
theories required much practice to master. Italian masters like
Agrippa and Capo Ferro developed a more pragmatic school in the
late 16th and early 17th centuries, introducing innovations such
as linear fencing and the lunge.
By the 18th century, the rapier had evolved to a simpler,
shorter, and lighter design that was popularized in France as the
small sword, or court sword. Although the small sword often had
an edge, it was only to discourage the opponent from grabbing the
blade, and the weapon was used exclusively for thrusting. The
light weight made a more complex and defensive style possible,
and the French masters developed a school based on subtlety of
movement, double-time parries, and complex attacks. When
buttoned with a leather safety tip that resembled a flower, the
small sword was known as le fleuret, and was identical in use to
the modern foil (still known as le fleuret in French). Indeed,
the French small sword school forms the basis of most of modern
fencing theory.
By the mid-19th century, duelling was in decline as a means of
settling disputes, partially because victory could lead to a jail
term for assault or manslaughter. Emphasis shifted to defeating
the opponent without necessarily killing him, and less fatal
duelling forms evolved using the duelling sword, or epee de terrain,
an unedged variant of the small sword. Later duels often ended
with crippling thrusts to the arm or leg, and fewer legal
difficulties for the participants. This is the basis of modern
epee fencing.
Cutting swords had been used in bloodsports such as backsword
prizefights at least as far back as the 17th century.
Broadswords, sabres, and cutlasses were used extensively in
military circles, especially by cavalry and naval personell, and
saw some duelling application in these circles as well. Training
was performed with wooden weapons, and stick fighting remained
popular until Italian masters formalized sabre fencing into a
non-fatal sporting/training form with metal weapons in the late
19th century. Early sport sabres were significantly heavier than
the modern sport sabre and necessitated a strong style with the
use of moulinets and other bold movements. As with thrusting
swords, the sabre evolved to lighter, less fatal duelling forms
such as the Italian sciabola di terro and the German schlager.
Hungarian masters developed a new school of sabre fencing that
emphasized finger control over arm strength, and they dominated
sabre fencing for most of the 20th century.
Duelling faded away altogether in the early 20th century. A
couple of noteworthy duels were fought over disputes that arose
during Olympic games in the 1920s. According to E.F. Morton (A-Z
of Fencing) the last widely publicized formal duel occurred in
France in 1954, ending with a scratch to the arm. German
fraternity duelling (mensur) persisted longer, and may still
occur with some frequency.
The first modern Olympic games featured foil and sabre fencing
for men only. Epee was introduced in 1900. Single stick was
featured in the 1904 games. Epee was electrified in the 1936
games, foil in 1956, and sabre in 1988. Early Olympic games
featured events for Masters, and until recently fencing was the
only Olympic sport that has included professionals. Disruptions
in prevailing styles have accompanied the introduction of
electric judging, most recently transforming sabre fencing. Foil
fencing experienced similar upheavals for a decade or two
following the introduction of electric judging, which were
further complicated by the new, aggressive, athletic style coming
out of eastern Europe at the time.
Women's foil was first contested in the 1924 Olympic games, and
Women's epee was only contested for the first time in 1996,
although it has been part of the World Championships since 1989.
Women's sabre has a small amount of grassroots support, but has
not made much impact yet on the national and international
scenes.
[Back to Index]
1.3 How is modern fencing different from the "real thing"?
Different people mean different things by "real" fencing.
For some, "real" fencing is a duel with sharp swords and lives on
the line. Other than the fear/courage factor, the primary
technical difference here is that with live blades you only need
to hit your opponent once, and therefore only require one good
move (which explains the prevalence of "secret thrusts" in the
bad old days). The sport fencer, by comparison, has to hit his
opponent as many as 15 times (even more if the officiating is
poor!), and so requires considerably more depth than the
duellist. On the other hand, the sport fencer takes many more
defensive risks, since he has up to 15 lives to work with.
Some purists will equate "real" fencing with classical fencing,
ie. the prevalent styles of the traditional French and Italian
schools of fencing that predominated before electric fencing was
popularized. By comparison, modern fencing is more mobile and
athletic, while classical fencers were known for their more
sophisticated phrasing and bladework.
A few fans of heavy metal think real fencing is only done with
big, strong swords, and that light duelling-style weapons are
toys. Historically, however, lighter thrusting swords evolved
because they were considerably more deadly than heavy cutting
weapons. Many masters of the 17th century disliked the new
schools of fencing precisely because they were too murderous.
However, the light duelling sabres that arose near the end of
the 19th Century did lack offensive punch on the cut compared
with their more military antecedents. Military sabre fencing
required more arm strength, and the use of moulinets.
Lastly, it just seems apparent to some that sport fencing has
evolved away from its bloody origins. Technically, this is
untrue, at least for the thrusting weapons; the theory, methods,
and techniques of fencing have not seen significant innovation
since at least the last century. The modern fencer remains
well-equipped, skill-wise, to fight a duel. Tactically and
psychologically, however, the sport is a vastly different world
from the duel. Obviously there is no real danger to getting hit,
and with up to 15 hits needed to secure victory, there often
isn't even much figurative danger. In addition, since the
quality of a hit (eg. fatal vs. serious wound vs. minor scratch)
is immaterial, fencers will naturally prefer an easy "wounding"
hit over a difficult "fatal" one, and glancing hits will often
win out over strong thrusts.
[Back to Index]
1.4 Which is the best weapon?
Such a question is an open invitation to religious warfare.
Everybody loves to participate, but nothing is ever settled.
If the question means "what kind of fencing is the most fun?" then
the answer is: it depends what aspects of fencing you enjoy the most.
If you are fascinated by technique, bladework, and tactics, you will
probably get a lot of satisfaction from foil fencing. More visceral
fencers who want to experience the adrenaline rush of a fast,
agressive sword fight will want to try some sabre. Most epee fencers
consider themselves practical, no-nonsense sword fighters who rely on
as few artificial rules as possible. Enthusiasts of more medieval
combat styles, involving armour and heavy weapons, should consider
joining the SCA or a kendo dojo.
On the other hand, if the question means "which weapon is the most
deadly?" the answer will depend on a lot of factors, not the least
of which are the skill of the combatants, the presence of armour, the
military and cultural context, and the rules of the fight (ie. is
this a street fight, a gentlemen's duel, or open field warfare?).
Most swords are highly optimized for performance in a specific
environment, and will not perform well outside it. Comparing two
swords from completely different historical contexts is therefore
extremely difficult, if not downright silly.
Then again, perhaps the question means "which style of fencing is
the most realistic?" It must be said that questions of realism have
little relevance to an activity that has almost no practical
application in the modern world other than sport and fitness.
Historically, however, epees have the closest resemblance (among FIE
weapons) to real duelling swords, and the rules closely parallel
those of actual duels (sometimes being fought to only a single
point). Other martial arts with a high realism factor include
kenjutsu and some aspects of SCA fighting.
[Back to Index]
1.5 Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?
Olympic fencing appears to be safe for Atlanta 1996 and Sydney
2000, and has even been expanded to include Women's Epee. Since
the IOC perpetually changes its roster of Olympic sports, nothing
is certain beyond then. Although fencing is one of only four
sports to have been involved in every modern Olympic Games since
their inception in 1896, it has been mentioned in the past as one
of the disciplines that may be eliminated from future Games.
According to Gilbert Felli, Sports Director of the International
Olympic Committee, the IOC plans to refine future games in
various ways, including:
-- limiting the number of athletes to 15000
-- increasing participation by women
-- eliminating "so-called artificial team events"
-- limiting sports of a similar type
-- modernizing the Olympic program
-- encouraging sports that provide a good television spectacle
Fencing recently underwent numerous revisions to its rules and
structure to improve its value as a (televised?) spectator sport,
perhaps in the hopes of improving its Olympic viability.
[Back to Index]
1.6 Does it hurt?
Not if done properly. Although executed with appreciable energy,
a good, clean fencing attack hurts no more than a tap on the
shoulder. The force of the blow is normally absorbed by the flex
of the blade. Reckless and overly aggressive fencers can
occasionally deliver painful blows, however. Fencing *is* a
martial art, so you should expect minor bruises and welts every
now and again. They are rarely intentional. The most painful
blows tend to come from inexperienced fencers who have not yet
acquired the feel of the weapon.
The primary source of injury in fencing is from pulled muscles
and joints. Proper warm-up and stretching before fencing will
minimize these occurences.
There is a risk of being injured by broken weapons. The shards
of a snapped blade can be very sharp and cause serious injury,
especially if the fencer doesn't immediately realize his blade is
broken, and continues fencing. Always wear proper protective
gear to reduce this risk. FIE homologated jackets, britches, and
masks are ideal, as they are made with puncture-resistant fabrics
such as kevlar. If you cannot afford such extravagances, use a
plastron (half-jacket worn beneath the regular fencing jacket),
and avoid old and rusty masks. Always wear a glove that covers
the cuff, to prevent blades from running up the sleeve.
Fencing is often said to be safer than golf. Whether or not this
is true, it is an extraordinarily safe sport considering its
heritage and nature.
[Back to Index]
1.7 What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?
Foil is the most common starter weapon. It is an excellent weapon
to begin with if you have no preferences or want to learn
generalized principles of swordfighting. Transitions to the other
weapons from foil are relatively straight forward. Foil is an
abstracted form of fencing that emphasises proper defence, and
cleanly executed killing attacks. Historically it was a training
weapon for the small sword, so it is well suited for the purposes of
learning. However, it is far from a simple weapon, and many
experienced fencers return to foil after trying the others.
Sabre can sometimes be an effective starter weapon, for a few
reasons. Like foil, it has rules of right-of-way to emphasize
proper defense, and its de-emphasis of point attacks can be a
relief to a beginner who doesn't yet have much point control.
Also, in some areas it may still be possible to compete in dry
sabre competitions, meaning that it can be the cheapest of all
weapons to compete in (although electric sabre is definitely the
most expensive weapon). However, sabre differs from foil and
epee in a few key respects that can reduce its effectiveness as a
starter weapon if the fencer plans to try the others in the
future. Among these differences are the aforementioned
de-emphasis of point attacks, and a different sense of timing and
distance.
Epee is sometimes used as a starter weapon for two reasons. First,
the rules are simple and easy to grasp, and second, the equipment
costs are lower, since no lame' is required. However, the apparent
simplicity of the sport can obscure its subtleties to the beginner,
and make progress difficult later on. Furthermore, the lack of
right-of-way in epee can make transitions to the other two weapons
difficult, if put off for too long.
[Back to Index]
1.8 How long does it take to become good?
There is a saying that it takes two lifetimes to master fencing. By
the time anyone has come close to "mastering" the sport, they are
long past their athletic prime. Some may feel that this is a
drawback to the sport, but most fencers see it as a great strength:
fencing never becomes dull or routine; there are always new skills to
master, and new grounds to conquer.
A dedicated novice who practices twice per week will be ready to
try low-level competition in 3-6 months. Competition at this point
should be viewed as a learning aid, not as a dedicated effort to win.
Serious attempts at competing will be possible after 2-3 years,
when the basic skills have been sufficiently mastered that the
mind is free to consider strategy.
A moderate level of skill (eg. C classification) can take 3-5 years
of regular practice and competition.
Penetration of the elite ranks (eg. world cup, A classification)
demands three to five days per week of practice and competition, and
usually at least 10-15 years of experience.
Progress can be faster or slower, depending on the fencer's
aptitude, dedication, and quality of instruction. Rapid progress
normally requires at least three practices per week, and regular
competition against superior fencers.
The average world champion is in his late 20s to early 30s and began
fencing as a child.
[Back to Index]
1.9 What qualities make a good fencer?
There are many.
On the athletic side, speed and endurance must rank foremost. Other
traits that can be exploited are strength (for explosive speed, not
heavy handedness), precision, and flexibility. Quick reaction time
is extremely important.
On the intellectual side, a good mind for strategy and tactics is
essential. The ability to quickly size up your opponent and adapt
your style accordingly is essential.
Psychologically, a fencer must be able to maintain focus, concentration,
and emotional level-headedness under intense conditions of combat.
Stress management, visualization, and relaxation techniques are all
helpful to putting in winning performances.
As far as body type goes, it is always possible to adapt your style
to take advantage of your natural traits. Even so, height seems to
be useful in epee, but not necessarily in sabre. Small or thin
people are harder to hit in foil. A long reach helps in epee, and
long legs are an asset in foil.
It should be noted that left handers usually enjoy a slight advantage,
especially against inexperienced fencers. This may account for the
fact that lefties make up 15% of novice fencers, but half of FIE
world champions.
[Back to Index]
1.10 How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?
Beginner's dry fencing setup: about $100 - $200 US
Includes: cotton jacket, glove, dry weapon, mask
FIE Competition setup: about $500 - $1000 US
Includes: FIE 800N jacket & britches, FIE 1600N mask, at least
2 electric weapons, body cord, socks, glove, shoes, lame
(foil & sabre only), sensor (sabre only).
Note: while FIE-certified equipment is recommended both in
terms of safety and quality, clothing costs can be as much
as halved by purchasing regular cotton or synthetic knits.
Do not expect such equipment to be accepted at national or
international levels of competition, however. Always wear
a plastron when using non-homologated fencing jackets.
Club costs vary, but are usually on the order of $50-$100 per year
for each day per week of fencing. Many clubs will provide or rent
equipment to beginners.
[Back to Index]
1.11 How do I find a good fencing club?
Start with your local Provincial or Divisional fencing association.
If you don't know how to find them, contact your national fencing body
(see section 3.1). Your national body may maintain a list of known
fencing clubs in the country. Otherwise, your local association will
be able to tell you about recognized clubs in your area. Many
universities and colleges also sponsor fencing clubs and teams that
will often accept non-students as members. You might also check out
courses or camps offered by local community centers.
Fencers with Web access can find a list of U.S. fencing clubs at
http://sarah.rsip.lsu.edu/fencing/fencing.clubs.html or at http://www.usfa.org
and a list of Canadian Fencing clubs at http://www.fencing.ca/fra_dire.htm.
Once you have a list of potential clubs, you will want to
evaluate them and your needs. Desirable qualities vary, depending
on your skill level and what you want to get out of fencing.
Ask the following questions when selecting your club (if you're not
sure what you want, "yes" is a good answer to all these questions):
Does it have an active beginners' program? Are there enough fencers
of your own skill level? Are there some fencers above your skill
level? If you don't have your own equipment, does the club provide
it? Does the club have ample electric scoring boxes and reels? Does
the club emphasize the same weapons that you are interested in? Do
club members compete regularly? Does the club have a master or
coach? Has he/she had many competitive successes either fencing or
coaching? Can you get individual lessons and instruction? At no
extra cost?
Lastly, atmosphere is important to any social endeavour. Choose a
club that makes you feel comfortable and relaxed without sacrificing
the athletic spirit that is essential to progress.
[Back to Index]
1.12 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?
The best training for fencing is fencing. Fencing development is
asymmetrical and few other sports use the same muscle groups, so
this is a difficult question whose answer depends largely on what
aspect of your training you really want to focus on.
Cardiovascular fitness and leg strength always help, so anything that
enhances these will be beneficial. Cycling, swimming, aerobics, and
skating are good examples. Running, sprinting, soccer, basketball,
and similar sports can also be helpful, although some athletes dislike
the stresses they put on the knees. Racquet sports like tennis,
badminton, squash, racquetball, and table tennis are also excellent,
and will exercise your weapon arm in addition to your legs.
Circuit or period training (short bursts of high-heart-rate
exercise followed by brief recovery periods) has been put forward
as particularly relevant to the demands of fencing.
Many martial arts have physical and mental demands that are similar
to fencing, and can improve both your fitness and your intellectual
approach to the sport. Technique and tactics very rarely translate,
however.
Weight training can help, if done properly, but the athlete must
remember that flexibility, speed, and technique are more
important than raw strength, although proper strength training
(especially of the lower body and legs) can improve speed
significantly. Otherwise, endurance training should have
priority over bodybuilding. Excessive weight training of the
upper body can adversely affect point control, according to some
masters, who prefer weighted wrist straps worn during regular
practice.
Some fencers maintain that juggling improves reactions, hand-eye
coordination, and use of peripheral vision.
Many coaches and fencers suggest occasional fencing or workouts with
your opposite hand, both to improve skill and balance your muscular
development.
[Back to Index]
1.13 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach?
It is very easy to acquire bad habits and poor technique if you do
not have the guidance of a knowledgable fencing master, coach, or
fellow fencer. If you are serious about improving your fencing,
quality coaching is always your best investment. However, a
disciplined fencer still has options if decent instruction is not
available on a regular basis.
Firstly, a solid knowledge of fencing theory and regulations is a
must. The freelance fencer should study the FIE Rules of
Competition and a good fencing manual (see Section 3.3). The
fencer should test and apply this knowledge by presiding whenever
possible. An appreciation of good fencing style is also
essential, so that the fencer can readily identify weaknesses in
his own and other fencers' techniques. Observation and comparison
of skilled or accomplished fencers will develop this ability.
Training videotapes and videotapes of high-level competitions (see
Section 3.6) are also helpful in this regard.
The freelance fencer must be open-minded and critical of his own
technique, so that he can recognize problems before they develop
into habits. Discussion of his weaknesses with training opponents
will help him clarify the areas that need work. If possible, he
should videotape his bouts and review them to spot defects in his
tactics and technique.
The fencer should seek out opponents who will strenuously test
his weaknesses. More experienced fencers, left-handers, those
whose tactics are particularly effective, and even those with
annoying (ie. difficult) styles should be courted on the practice
strip. When fencing less skilled opponents, the fencer should
restrict his tactics to a small set that require practice, and
resist the temptation to open up if he should start losing.
The opportunity to participate in footwork and line drills should
never be passed up. When he can find an agreeable partner, the
fencer can do more personalized drills to exercise his weak areas.
(Of course it is courteous to indulge the needs of one's partner
when he in turn works on his own training.)
Lastly, the fencer should remain aware of his bout psychology and
mental state when fencing, and try to cultivate the mindset that
in his experience produces good fencing.
[Back to Index]
1.14 What is right-of-way?
Right-of-way is the set of rules used to determine who is awarded the
point when there is a double touch in foil or sabre (ie. both fencers
hit each other in the same fencing time). It is detailed in the
FIE Rules of Competition, Articles 232-237 (foil) and 416-423
(sabre).
The core assumption behind right-of-way is that a fencing bout is
always in one of three states:
-- nothing significant is happening
-- the fencers are conceiving and executing their actions
simultaneously
-- one fencer is controlling the action and tempo and the other
is trying to gain control.
Since no points will be scored in the first situation, we can ignore
it. In the second situation, the fencers' actions have equal
significance, and it is impossible to award a touch. Both touches
will be annulled and the bout will be resumed where it was
stopped.
The third situation is the tricky one. The controlling fencer
has the right-of-way, and his hit has precedence over any hit
from the other fencer. The job of the referee is to decide which
fencer was NOT controlling the action, and annul his touch. If
he cannot decide, the referee should abstain, annul BOTH hits,
and resume the action where it left off.
Control (and right-of-way) is taken whenever one fencer threatens
the other with his blade. A threat can be either an attack (see
question 1.15), or a "point in line" (see question 1.17) that is
established before the opponent attacks.
Control (and right-of-way) is lost when the threat misses, falls
short, is broken off, or is deflected away from the target by a
parry or other engagement from the defender. The defender has a
split-second window of opportunity to return the attack
(ie. riposte) before the attacker recovers; if he does so, he
takes over right-of-way and the tables have turned. Otherwise it
is a toss-up; the first fencer to initiate an attack will sieze
the right-of-way anew.
The right-of-way relationships between common fencing actions are as
follows:
- derobement has right-of-way over attacks on the blade
- attacks on the blade have right-of-way over the point in line
- point in line has right-of-way over the attack
- the simple attack has right-of-way over the stop-hit
- the stop-hit has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
- the stop-hit in time has right-of-way over the compound attack
- the riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
- the counter-riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the riposte
- the remise of the attack has right-of-way over the delayed riposte
[Back to Index]
1.15 What constitutes an attack?
According to Article 10 of the FIE rules of competition, "the
attack is the initial offensive action made by extending the arm
and continuously threatening the valid target of the opponent."
A threatening weapon is normally interpreted to be one that will
or could hit the opponent if no defensive action is taken. In
other words, a weapon threatens if it is moving towards the
target in a smooth, unbroken trajectory. This trajectory can be
curved, especially if the attack is indirect, compound, or
involves a cutting action. Hesitations and movements of the
blade away from the target will usually be perceived as a break
in the attack or a preparation of the attack.
One common misconception is that a straight or straightening arm
is required to assert the attack. However, neither the strict
wording nor the prevailing interpretation of the above rule
require that the attacker's arm become straight or even nearly
so. It is sufficient if the arm extends, even just slightly,
from its normal on-guard position. A long arm at the moment of
the touch is still good style, though, since it gives superior
reach and clearly shows the fencer's intent. While the attack
can often be asserted with only slight extension, retraction of
the arm will usually be interpreted as a break in the attack.
Another common misconception is that a point attack does not
threaten unless the point is aimed at the target. This is not
generally true. An out-of-line point does threaten if it is moving
towards the target on a smooth, unbroken trajectory. The most
common example of this is the coupe' (cut-over), in which the blade
is pulled away from the target to avoid the the opponent's blade,
and then returned into line to finish the attack. Coupe' takes the
right-of-way immediately, even though the point is initially pulled
away. So-called "flicks", relatives of the coupe' that involve
whipping the foible of the blade around parries or blocking body
parts, can also take the right-of-way when the blade starts its
final forward stroke.
Many fencers are under the mistaken impression that a bent arm or
out-of-line point constitutes a preparation, and therefore that
they can rightfully attack into it. If the bent arm is extending
and the out-of-line point is moving towards the target, however,
this assumption is usually false under modern fencing conventions.
A successful attack on the preparation must clearly precede the
opponent's initiation of the phrase or a break in his attack, or
else arrive a fencing time ahead of his touch.
Sabre fencers must also consider Article 417 of the Rules of
Competition, which states when the attack must land relative to
the footfalls of a lunge, advance-lunge, (and fleche,
historically). Attacks that arrive after the prescribed footfall
are deemed continuations, and do not have right-of-way over the
counter-attack. Sabre fencers must also remember that whip-over
touches can be interpreted as remises, and not mal-pare's.
[Back to Index]
1.16 What constitutes a parry?
According to Article 10 of the FIE Rules of Competition, "the
parry is the defensive action made with the weapon to prevent the
attack from arriving".
A successful parry deflects the threatening blade away from the
target. It is normally not sufficient to merely find or touch
the opponent's blade; the fencer must also exhibit control over
it (although the benefit of the doubt usually goes to the fencer
making the parry). If the attack continues without any
replacement of the point and makes a touch, it retains the
right-of-way (mal-pare' by the defender). If the attacker must
replace the point into a threatening line before continuing, it
is a remise (renewal of the attack) and does not have
right-of-way over the riposte. In practice, very little
deflection is needed with a well-timed parry.
A well-executed parry should take the foible of the attacker's
blade with the forte and/or guard of the defender's. This
provides the greatest control over the opponent's blade. In
other cases the parry can still be seen as sufficient if the
attacking blade is sufficiently deflected. In ambiguous cases,
however, the benefit of the doubt is usually given to the fencer
who used his forte/guard. For example, if a fencer attempts to
parry using his foible on his opponent's forte, it will often be
interpreted in the reverse sense (eg. counter-time parry by the
attacker), since such an engagement does not normally result in
much deflection of the attack. A foible to foible parry could
potentially be seen as a beat attack by the opposing fencer
depending on the specifics of the action.
At foil, the opponent's blade should not only be deflected away
from the target, but away from off-target areas as well. An
attack that is deflected off the valid target but onto invalid
target still retains right-of-way.
At sabre, the opponent's blade need only be deflected away from
valid target, since off-target touches do not stop the phrase.
Cuts are considered parried if their forward movement is checked
by a block with the blade or guard. Otherwise, sabre parries
must be particularly clean and clear to avoid the possibility of
whip-over touches.
At epee, a good parry is simply any one that gains enough time
for the riposte. Opposition parries and binds are commonly used,
since they do not release the opponent's blade to allow a remise.
[Back to Index]
1.17 What constitutes a point-in-line?
According to Article 233 section 6 of the FIE Rules of
Competition, a point-in-line is a position "with the arm straight
and the point threatening the valid target".
Properly done, the arm should be extended as far as possible, and
form a more or less continuous line with the blade, with the
point aimed directly at the high lines of the target. Excessive
angulation at the wrist or fingers negates the point-in-line.
Superfluous movement of the point also risks negating the line,
especially in sabre. Derobements/trompements, however, are
permitted.
In foil and sabre, the point-in-line has priority over attacks
that are made without first taking the blade. With these
weapons (but not with epee) it is forbidden to assume the point-
in-line position before the command to fence has been given. In
sabre, a point-in-line that hits with the edge may be considered
to have missed, with the cut being considered a counter-attack
(assuming it even registers).
Note that although the rules do not comment on the role of the
feet in a point-in-line, there are "official interpretations"
that convert the point-in-line into an attack--or, more
importantly, a counter-attack--if it is delivered with a lunge or
fleche. This interpretation allows the line to retain priority
if it is delivered with an advance or jump, however. Some
referees reject even the latter, along with any other movements
(other than deceptions) that "improve the line". Yet another
body of opinion holds that a line that develops into an attack is
one continuous threat with no break in priority. The rulebook
has nothing to help us resolve this dispute, but it seems that
the first of these interpretations (that the line is valid except
in the case of lunge or fleche) has the most official
recognition.
[Back to Index]
1.18 What is the scoop on "flicks" and "whips"?
Flicks are whip-like attacks that can score against very oblique
and even concealed targets. Sometimes thought of as a recent
corruption, flicks actually have a long history that stems from
coupe' (the cut-over) and epeeists efforts to throw their points
around the bell. Properly executed and judged, they are effective
and beautiful attacks; poorly executed and judged, they can be
painful and annoying.
One common criticism of the flick is that it would cause minor
injury with a real weapon. The obvious, if flippant, response to
this is not to flick when fencing with a real weapon.
Another common criticism is that flicks are difficult to
defend against. One must simply remember to parry them as if
they were cuts, not thrusts (using auxiliary parries like tierce,
quinte, and elevated sixte). The flick is also highly sensitive
to distance, and a well-timed break in the measure will cause it
to land flat.
A third criticism is that flicks are usually given the priority,
even though the attack often begins with the point aimed at the
ceiling. However, the definition of an attack (see question 1.15)
says nothing about where the point is aimed, only what it is
threatening. It is normally true that an attack that scores must
have threatened in at least its final tempo.
Sabre fencing has suffered from a related and more serious
scourge, the whip-over. In this case, the foible bends around the
opponent's blade or guard following a parry, to contact the target
and register a touch. The scoring machines attempt to reduce these
false touches by blocking hits within a certain time window following
weapon contact, but this is of limited effectiveness and also has the
unfortunate effect of blocking the occasional attack through the
blade. Referees have tried to help out by analyzing whip-over
touches as remises, but they still score over composed or delayed
ripostes. The FIE has been considering and trying various possible
fixes, including varying the timeouts and mandating stiffer sabre
blades.
[Back to Index]
1.19 What are the latest rule changes?
Most of the following rule amendments were introduced for the
1994/95 season.
EQUIPMENT:
- 800N underarm protector (plastron) is required in addition
to the regular 800N jacket.
- Clothing may be of different colours, but those on the body
must be white or light-coloured.
- Minimum width of the strip is now 1.5 metres.
- In foil, the bib was supposed to become target as of
Oct 1, 1995, but this amendment appears to have been dropped.
ETIQUETTE:
- Salute of opponent, referee, and audience is mandatory at
the start and end of the bout.
BOUT FORMAT:
- Coin flip to determine winner in the event of a tie shall be
made at end of regulation time, and one additional minute
shall be fenced. The winner of the coin toss shall be
recorded as the victor if the bout is not resolved by sudden
death in the extra minute.
- No more 1-minute warning, although fencers can request the
time remaining at any normal halt in the action.
- Fencers shall be placed at the en garde lines at the
commencement of each 3-minute period in 15-touch elimination
bouts.
SCORING:
- In sabre, simultaneous attacks that both arrive on the valid
target do not result in any points being scored.
- In sabre, any action in which the rear leg is crossed in
front of the fore shall be penalized with a yellow card, or
a red card if a yellow has already been given. Any touch
scored by the penalized fencer resulting from the cross-over
action shall not be scored, although a properly-executed
touch from the opponent is still valid.
- In the team relay, the first pair of fencers fence to 5
points or 4 minutes, whichever comes first. The next pair
continue from this score up to 10 points within 4 minutes,
and so on up to a total score of 45 points.
[Back to Index]
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
Author: Morgan Burke
Contributors: special thanks to Suman Palit, Guy Smith, Greg Dilworth,
Kevin Taylor, Eric Anderson, Blaine Price, Steve Hick, Kim
Moser, David Glasser, Bryan Mansfield, Donald Lane, Ann McBain,
Hagen Lieffertz, Mark C. Orton, Mike Buckley, Dirk Goldar,
Scott Holmes, Arild Dyrseth, David Airey, Renee Mcmeeken, Marc
Walch, Eric Speicher, Anton Oskamp, Bernard Hunt, Francis Cordero,
Kent Krumvieda, David Van Houten, John Crawford, Kim Taylor,
Brendan Robertson, Ivo Volf, Kevin Wechtaluk, Frank Messemer,
Benerson Little, Mark Crocker, Eileen Tan, Mark Tebault, Tim
Schofield, Peter Gustafsson, Kevin Haidl, Peter Crawford,
Camille Fabian, Matt Davis, Fernando Diaz, Anders Haavie,
R=FCdiger Schierz, Todd Ellner, George Kolombatovich,
Padraig Coogan
© 1993-97 Morgan Burke
Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document
for non-profit purposes.
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End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ part I