Storage Shed - Construction Notes
- foundation and floor
- remove sod (grass + 2" soil)
- level ground
- 3"-4" gravel bed
- spray with water and compact
- stacked solid concrete blocks
- shingles between concrete blocks and skids
- 4"x6"x12' #2 treated skids
- cut 45-deg angle on ends
- drill 1.5"-diameter hole about 4" from each end
- treated wood isn't treated all the way through; put preservative on cuts
- 2"x6"x12' treated rim joist
- 2"x6"x8' treated floor joist
- 23/32" x 4' x 8' CCX treated plywood for floor
- use 2" decking screws 6" apart along edges and 12" apart along intermediate supports
- walls
- framing
- roof
- (10) 2"x4"x10' rafter
- cut gussets from extra plywood
- (2) 2"x4"x8' ceiling joist
- (2) 2"x4"x8' braces for end of rafters -- cut into 3.5" pieces (2 per rafter)
- lean-to roof
- (2) 4"x4"x8' treated posts
- (1) 2"x6"x8' horizontal beam connecting posts
- (2) Simpson connectors
- (1) 2"x4"x8' treated wall connection
- (7) 2"x4"x8' rafters
- (2) 4'x8' sheathing
- (6) ply clips
- (2) facia
- back wall
- (3) 2"x4"x12' bottom and top plates
- (10) 2"x4"x8' stud
- (3) 3/8" or 11/32"x4'x8' RS Pine Siding with 8" grooves
- (2) siding stain
- (1) trim stain
- (4) brushes
- front wall
- (3) 2"x4"x12' bottom and top plates
- (8) 2"x4"x8' stud
- (1) 2"x6"x8' door and window header beam
- (2) 2"x4"x8' door jack stud
- (2) 2"x4"x8' window stud
- (6) 2"x4"x8' header brace + door
- (3) 3/8" or 11/32"x4'x8' RS Pine Siding with 8" grooves
- side 1
- (6) 2"x4"x8' stud
- (3) 2"x4"x8' bottom and top plates
- (3) 3/8" or 11/32"x 4'x8' RS Pine Siding with 8" grooves (one extra for pitched portion of walls)
- (1) z-bar
- side 2
- (6) 2"x4"x8' stud
- (3) 2"x4"x8' bottom and top plates
- (2) 3/8" or 11/32"x 4'x8' RS Pine Siding with 8" grooves
- (1) z-bar
- will need extra 2x4s to temporarily hold walls in place -- can use jack studs
- check that corners are plumb when standing up walls
- use two 3" screws between each floor beam to hold wall to floor (into ridge joist)
- also screw through corner board and each corner stud
- cut out the threshold board after wall is erected
- screw walls together with 3" screws 12" apart
- window
- Pella ThermaStar 36"x24" vinyl 10 sliding (left-right) window
- rough opening: 36"x24"
- actual frame size: 35.5"x23.5"
- wall vents
- siding
- 3/8" or 11/32" RS Pine Siding
- apply stain with 4"x6" pad, let is soak for 10 minutes, scrub surface with stiff-bristles scouring brush
- lay plywood upside down when cutting with circular saw
- use 1.5" stainless or galvanized nails with spiral or ringed shanks 10" apart on siding
- z-bar
- door
- framing
- shim the jack studs and header for plumb and level
- hardware
- use nails as spacers between door and jack stud when hinges are installed
- use a 3" decking screw in each hinge (in jack stud)
- drill pilot holes for 3" screws
- use at least one carriage bolt in each hinge to keep it from being removed from the outside (drill hole in hinge larger if needed)
- lockable hasp installed 36" up from bottom of door
- trim
- all
- treated appearance board
- (14) 1"x4"x8' side and door trim
- (2) 1"x4"x10' rake facia
- (2) 1"x4"x12' eave facia
- wait to put on trim until lean-to is added
- use 1.5" siding nails on trim
- start trim at top, on sides and then work down and to the front and back
- eaves
- run rake trim too long and trim later
- door
- 1"x4" treated trim on plywood door
- top of middle, horizontal trim board should be approx. 38" from bottom edge of door
- roof
- framing
- put crowns up
- attach gussets with construction adhesive and 1" roofing nails
- fasten trusses on one side only, align walls, fasten other side starting at center truss
- soffit
- rip extra plywood into 5" strips
- sheathing
- (4) 15/32" 4X8 BC PINE ULX EXTERIOR
- rip three 10" strips from one sheet
- will have extra 0.5"x18"x8' which is enough for soffit
- offset the ends of the sheets
- (18) 1/2" plywood clip
- install 1 plywood clip between each pair of trusses
- 2" nails 6" apart along edges and 12" apart on intermediate supports
- gable overhang
- (6) 2"x4"x10'
- (2) 1"x6"x10' rake board
- screw three 2x4s together + 1x6 fascia to form overhang
- goes on after siding
- leave rake board 6" too long and trim later
- drip edge
- (4) 4.5"x1"x10' brown
- use 0.75" roofing nails on drip-edge 10" apart and about 1" from rear edge of the flashing
- install front drip-edge first
- lap side drip-edge over front drip-edge
- shingles
- 125 sqft + 64 sqft for lean-to
- extra shingles for edges and starter row (turned backwards)
- 4 shingles for water barrier on concrete blocks
- 15 shingles for starter row and edge on main roof
- 10 shingles for ridge
- 8 shingles for starter row and edge on lean-to
- 26 or 27 shingles per bundle
- starter row
- extend 3/8" beyond rake and eaves
- fasten with 5 nails 2" or 3" up from eaves
- do rake first, then eaves; don't overlap them
- ridge
- cut 3-tab shingles into three 12"x12" pieces
- cover exposed nails with asphalt plastic cement